View Full Version : Question TL1000S rear caliper
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 10:15 AM
Who designed the rear caliper on the TL1000S :shooter
Anyone got any tips on getting the pad retaining pins out?
They fit into a blind hole so you cannot tap them through from the back, the retaing clip stops the pins rotating, and thus, unless the previous pad replacer used a nice bit of coppa-slip on the pins, they sieze solid, as mine have, I have removed the caliper into the shed on the workbench, I have soaked them with penetrating oil overnight still can't shift them, any tips?
I also have a siezed piston, but I'll tackle that when I have the pins out.
Phone Mick up..............I think he knows
DoodleBug
09-05-2008, 10:29 AM
exactly the same as the SV mate, used mole grips, WD, and a small hammer!
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 10:32 AM
That goes without saying, if Mick doesn't have the answer nobody does, but I don't like to disturb him whilst he is trying to earn a living, and there is no panic, I am sure he will respond here later.
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 10:33 AM
exactly the same as the SV mate, used mole grips, WD, and a small hammer!
Tried that Karl, in the vice in the shed, not on the bike so I can get at it better etc.
I think I may end up having to split the caliper :o in which case I will go for new seals as well.
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 10:43 AM
I have also tried tapping the pin in a bit more and a little bit of heat, but I am concerned for the seals.
DoodleBug
09-05-2008, 11:13 AM
it took a while, but once they start moving it will come out, I tried to get the grips in position so that I could rock the pins before trying to slide them, helped break the crappy seal.
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 12:16 PM
:jumping2:jumping2:jumping2
Sorted it, just kep on doing what I was already doing and one of the pins started to turn a tiny bit, so I put some more penetrating oil on and kept going, eventually got it out. Started on the other one, I hit it with a hammer and screwdriver to shock it, then more penetrating oil and wiggling, that one eventually follow suit and came out.
Then I attacked the seized piston, connected it back up, bled it quick, then held the good piston with a pair of mole grips then used hydraulic pressure to push the seized piston out a bit, cleaned it up with wire wool and brake cleaner, then sprayed a bit of silicon rubber lubricant, and pushed it home.
MICKTLS
09-05-2008, 12:52 PM
glad to hear your now free so to speak you have done exactly the same as i would have done the only difference is the releasing agent i use :clap
kasandrich
09-05-2008, 01:06 PM
I did try poking a watch makers screwdriver in the retaining clip hole to turn it and get it moving, but I just snapped it off :reading
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