ZX636 advice

[FACESLIDER]

I've had my 636 for about a week now and i love it.There's just a few questions i'm hoping someone could help me out with :D

1..When starting the bike from cold the shop told me to put the choke on for about 45seconds then turn it off then just ride the bike,but a freind at work said he starts the bike with choke on then rides it still with the choke on untill the bike warms up.Whats the correct procedure?Sometimes the bike dies when ticking over with the choke on,then it's a bugger to get it started again.

2..When starting the bike first time from cold it fires up straight away,but if i have been riding the bike and i try to start it it can take a few attempts,as if it is flooded or something..Why is this?

3..When cruising,if i suddenly open the throttle there seems to be a flat spot.It feels like it pauses,then the power comes on.I notice it most in 2nd and 3rd gear.Is this normal?

4.I want to fit a race can.Does anything else on the bike need to be fiddled with or is it just a case of swaping cans over?

5.I've been told by a few people that Kawasaki's are prone to nuts and bolts ceasing up and screw heads wearing away.Is this true?

Thanks people :D :D

[Biker Dude]

not sure on the rest but number 3. if u got carbs they need ballancing if its f-i then it needs setting up....either way a dyno run would do it. Possibly when u get the can

[FasterThanU]

1. dude its injected. DONT ride a bike on choke itll just cake your plugs in crap! and on a warm day the new one wont even need choke just let it get to at least 55c before you go anywhere

2. dont know about that just make sure your not using any throttle when you start it

3. had its first service?

4. come in to hein gerickes ill sort you out!!!

[two]

1. the 636 A1 model still has carbs... the 636 b1 onwards was injected
check this word document for warm up process for G,J,A carbed models
http://www.britten.yourideal.co.uk/downloads/ADJUSTING%20CHOKE%20AND%20IDLE%20SPEED.doc
I'd actually start riding once the bike is idling on its own but wouldn't give the engine high revs until the temperature above 55
avoid riding with the choke on

q,Sometimes the bike dies when ticking over with the choke on,then it's a bugger to get it started again.
a, turn the choke off, open the throttle wide open and press the starter.. should hopefully fire into life easily

2. this is common, believe it has something to do with clearances opening up slightly due to expansion (although this has never effected any zx6r i've owned, i've heard of many zx6rs moaning about this)

3. what revs are you at...? their is a flat spot engineered in the rev range to help get past noise and emission regs.. dyno jet kit / rolling road session will sort it out...
or it could be the carbs need syncing
http://www.britten.yourideal.co.uk/downloads/Carb%20Balancing.doc

4. depends on the can.. zx6rs' run slightly rich as standard, fitting a race can leans them out, the danger is they may lean them out to much and then you may have an issue
i've had a yoshi on a F3,art can on a J1, a araki on my b1 and didn't fiddle with anything else.. although they would of benefitted from a dyno jet kit /power commander and rolling road session

5. suzuki's finish are worse....;)
to be fair i don't think kawas are any worse than anyother bike...they'll all rot away if not looked after

copper grease all the fairing bolt,
the screw that always locks solid is the screw at the bottom of the front fairing... but its a nice easy one to drill out

i found that on standard suspension settings my J1 (pretty much the same suspension as your A1) wouldn't hold a line, raising the rear ride height fixed this...
although on a zx6r after a J1 (2000) they don't have adjusting nut on the shock.... luckily the adjusting nut from a J1 will fit the later bikes (J2,A1,B1,B2)...and simply replace the spacer
Part number of 16 mm adjusting nut is 92015-1953
Lots of people find the PB suspension settings an improvement over standard
http://www.britten.yourideal.co.uk/downloads/PB%20Suspension%20Settings%20for%20ZX6R%20J1%20&%20J2.pdf

[FasterThanU]

sorry dude thought you had this years model! shoulda got that pic up sooner.

[FACESLIDER]

No probs :D :D Thanks for the help lads :D :D

[bikageboy]

I've had my 636 for about a week now and i love it.There's just a few questions i'm hoping someone could help me out with :D

1..When starting the bike from cold the shop told me to put the choke on for about 45seconds then turn it off then just ride the bike,but a freind at work said he starts the bike with choke on then rides it still with the choke on untill the bike warms up.Whats the correct procedure?Sometimes the bike dies when ticking over with the choke on,then it's a bugger to get it started again.

you wanna start the bike and ride it right away, as this will get the engine up to temp quicker.

2..When starting the bike first time from cold it fires up straight away,but if i have been riding the bike and i try to start it it can take a few attempts,as if it is flooded or something..Why is this?

depends if its fuel injected or carb'd

3..When cruising,if i suddenly open the throttle there seems to be a flat spot.It feels like it pauses,then the power comes on.I notice it most in 2nd and 3rd gear.Is this normal?

not sure, but sounds linked to number 2, id say there is something wrong with your fuel/air mix

4.I want to fit a race can.Does anything else on the bike need to be fiddled with or is it just a case of swaping cans over?

in most cases its fine, but would benefit from a rejet.

5.I've been told by a few people that Kawasaki's are prone to nuts and bolts ceasing up and screw heads wearing away.Is this true?

no where near as bad as suzukis, all depends on how well you look after your bike, header bolts will be the worst affected, probably followed by brake bolts, keep them well lubed with copper grease (be careful not to get any on break discs and pads tho)
Thanks people :D :D

anytime 8)