1993-2000 TZR125R Derestricting

[Tark]

I can see lots of questions about TZR's so i am guessing this has been asked before.

But here goes.

I have just bought a tzr and it wouldn't pull past about 8000rpm even though it doesn't redline till 12000. I have tried to adjust the powervalve by tightening the cables and this has seemed to help a bit.

Does anyone know of how to do it properly by taking pins out and stripping it down etc etc. I dont want to jump into it and mess it up!!

Also is there any other way that it is restricted?

Thanks

[FUBAR]

Ello Tark not sure what Tzrr uve got from ur picture im asuming u have the english version of the Tzrr..

Well firstly is ur (ypvs) powervalve servo motor working corretly ie does it do the duty cycle when u first turn the ignition on ( goes from fully closed to fully open ) u can tell this by removing the pully cover on the left hand side of the cylinder head ..

If that works fine the next thing is to find out if its opening from fully closed while running at idle speed 1,200rpm to fully open at 6,500 rpm
( also check by removing the exhaust that the powervavle is flush with the exhaust port when its fully open even if the pully says its fully open some tit may have put the pully onto the valve upside down ( IT CAN HAPPEN )

Right now asuming all of the above is working correctly and setup correctly the other restrictions on the english version of the tzr Are 1 : a possible cone spot welded into the flange of the exhuast

2: The reed valve stopper plates are set 1-2 mill closer to the reed block restricting the amount of fuel and air passing through the reed ( not allways the case but i have found this to be the cause on a few Tzr125r's also on Dtr125r's ) I havnt got the messurments to hand atm as some arse has taken my Micrometer for a walk :/ but as soon as i know ill post it here for ya ..

the only other thing i can think of atm is ur main jet may be one or 2 sizes to small although this wouldnt cause u bike to struggle at 8,000 rpm it would rather give the bike alittle less power

gl m8 hope i helped as i said ill give u the messurments to the reed stopper plates asap ..

Fubar

[Dan]

( also check by removing the exhaust that the powervavle is flush with the exhaust port when its fully open even if the pully says its fully open some tit may have put the pully onto the valve upside down ( IT CAN HAPPEN )


{COUGH} Stan Stephens...... {COUGH}

[FUBAR]

Hey Tark just had alook at ur website nice 1 wish i had the money and the will power to do that it was allways a dream of mine to race motorcycles professionaly :(

I also like ur dads paint work i wonder how much would he charge for a full respray of a Tzr125r ? as my gf threw hers down the road a few times ive stripped and primerd all of the parts its just a case of spraying them now .. all she wants is all black and she's gona l8r add a few snazzy decals .. :)

Anyway gl with ur racing im sure ull soon be getting a pole position :)


lol yeah Dont take ur bike to Stan Stephens Dan found that out the hard way, ud think a profesional 2 stroke mechanic would know how to bore out a 2 stroke cyclinder correctly wouldnt ya ?? lol

[Tark]

wow wow wow. SO much to reply to. I will start from the top.

Yea i have checked the servo etc etc and it does go fully open closed open and have had the exhaust off to try and open it properly. Dont know if this worked but it now revs to 10000rpm ish but dont like going much higher.

I dont know if it is fully open or not to be honest!!

Dont know how the power valve works so dont know if its flush or not.

put a coat hanger down the exhaust to see if there was a cone but didn't find one? Where would it be? I just checked by the exhaust port.


As for the racing. I am out at the min cos i got knocked off at Anglesey and broke my wrist. I bought the TZR with the insurance money.

My dad would do your fairing for next to nothing but we have to get my race bike back to shape first for my races in july. Maybe when we have things sorted out we will do it for you if you pay for paint and postage and a few quid for us. (if you dont get it done elsewhere in the mean time)

I struggle like mad paying for the racing. Pay for it myself with my apprentice wage! Not easy! Still got in the top three at the firts race this year at croft.

Thanks for the help?

[Tark]

ROFL! I have cracked it!! All done and wizzes up to 12000 now!! :twisted:

You wanna know how i did it?? :wink:

[Dan]

no.... YES!

ok - you have to ave seen Night at the Roxbury for that to be funny :wink:

[Tark]

A tell tale sign if it is restricted is when switch the ignition on the power valve makes the buzzing noise and should buzz 3 times. After you finish this guide it will only buzz twice.

Aim: Unleash the power!!

Tools needed: 10mm sockets and spanners
12mm sockets and spanners.
Allen keys
Screwdrivers flat and/or cross
Long nose pliers
Strippers
Crimpers
About 100mm of 1.5 or 2.5mm cabel
1 male and female crimp (blue or red will do)
1 eyelet crimp (blue or red will do)
Patridge and pair tree.

Firtly take a pear from you tree and eat it......
Only joking

Right then!!

well first you need to remove seat, tail section and both fairing panels. Take your exhaust off.

A tell tale sign if it is restricted is when switch the ignition on the power valve makes the buzzing noise and should buzz 3 times. After you finish this guide it will only buzz twice :wink:

With the left side fairing off you can get to the power valve cap. remove the cap and undo the 10mm bolt. the pulley with the 2 cables on shud pull off after slackening the cables first.

To get full power turn the valve with a pair of pliers until the power valve is fully open. Turn the powervalve whilst you have a finger up the exhaust port to tell when its there. Then put the pulley back on but make sure not to move the valve when you tighten it up. put the cables back on and tighten them up to take the slack out of them. Now to check that it is fully set up right you can tunr the ignition on. the valve should do its buzzing opening and closing the valve three buzzes in total. When its finished the valve should sit back in the fully open position. The valve should sit flush with the exhaust port.

Now the electronic restriction!!

After taking off the rear seat unit you should see a wiring harness along the left hand side of the bike. Slightly back from the oil tank there are two dead end wires tapped to the harness, black/blue and gray. These wires cause the powervalve to close again at high revs.

Strip both wires and join them together with a male crimp . You can just twist them together but its not recommended by myself. Then with another piece of wire of the same thickness (enough to go from the two wires to the oil tank earth) crimp a female crimp to one end and a ring to the other.

Now earth your ring to the oil tank earth and plug in your bullet connectors!

Now when you turn your ignition on the powervalve should only buzz twice.

Put all the powervlave covers, exhaust, rear unit and fairings back on, start her up, ride a little till fully warmed up then tear it up!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Have FUN!! :twisted:

[FUBAR]

U mean u havnt got an ignition control unit lol
N1 1: didnt know u didnt have one should have asked and 2:didnt know u could bypass is by joining them together then earthing them :S are u sure thats a good idea im sure there is power going through them :S? have u tested them with a multimeter to see if there is?

Anyway n1 for figuring that out :) now ur tzr125r goes almost as fast as my gf's :)

Fubar

[Tark]

It seems to work ok.

I got told what to do by phoning a local Yamaha dealer and they phoned up Yamaha and he told me (a freind that races an R6! :evil: )

I dont know if i have an Igntion control unit. Explain!

The wires were snipped and taped to the frame. If they had power going through them and i earthed it to the frame it would short the circuit and blow a fuse wouldn't it? Why were they just sat there cut off anyway??

Any why will it be nearly as fast as your GF? WHat have you done to that thing?

[FUBAR]

Well im reffering to the (italian) Belgrada Tzr125r sp ( my gf's model) hers has 2 ignition control units one black one white ( dan may have some pictures of these )
They are seperate to the Cdi unit not 100% sure what they do as i havnt got a manual for a iitalian tzr nor can i read italian but i do know if i remove one of the 2 boxes one stops the bike from running and the other one stops the servo from working correctly..

But mine have power going through them so earthing them to the frame wouldnt do the wiring loom alot of good ( this is obviously not the case with ur bike)

As for why is my gf's bike faster well since she has had the bike ive tinkerd with it ive raised the tranfer ports widend them alittle to allow more air flow and ive knife edged them so that the air splits more easily and just generlay reduce turbulence in the air flow .. Ive also tinkerd with the main needle jet and needle hights to find the best settings
Ive also altererd the Reed Valve stopper plates to allow more air flow and all of the inlet tracket and the reed valve cage have been cleaned up and smoothed out where ever posible ..
So basicly ive just cleaned the engine up to allow it to breath more easily
it goes pritty well for a 125 hasnt been beaten by any other 125 to date..

Other modifications are the full Arrows Exhuast system soon to be
changed for a jollymoto system ..

Its curerently abit of a mess as Carla my gf decided she'd do a Max Biaggi and throw it down the road completely ablitterating the fairing its all been repaired now just goto get it sprayed as u know as soon as it is ill be posting some videos and pictures for u all to take a look at :)

Fubar

[Tark]

Well if your getting a new exhaust i might be interested in buying your arrow one.

Plus i would like you to help me "tinker" with my bike to make it faster.

K&N, your GF's arrow exhaust :lol: , Carbon reeds, up-jet and play with needle and float will do the trick for me.

I dont want to go down the modding head and barrel yet! Just bolt ons for now!! :wink:

What size is the carb inlet so i know what K&N to by?

Any advise on the above mentioned tunes??

Cheers

[acid512]

Hi, i have a 1992 italian import model tzr125r, with the 2 controll units (1 black, 1 white) as you mention, but my bike has the same problem as this guys did before he de-restricted it. how do you de-restrict the italian ones?
by the way, the servo only turns twice when i turn on, not 3 times as suggested.
i could just peg the valve fully open like i used 2 on my old mk1 english tzr, but its not exactly smooth riding if i did!

[Dan]

That's a nice TZRR acid512, just like my old one but in better colours.

Anyway... back to your question.
Are you sure the bike is restricted? Most Belgradia imports like yours were never restricted in the first place....

One other thing, as a general comment to this thread..... the servo on my TZRR, which was de restricted, sometimes moved twice, and other times 3 times when aligning itself - so I doubt this has anything to do with restriction.

[Tark]

I noticed it. it went buuuz buuuzzzzzz buuuuuuuuz

now it goes

buuuuuuuuuuuzzzzzzz buuuuuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzzz.

But i do get what you mean.

It does do little tweaks every now and again.

[acid512]

I had hoped my bike was restricted, cause if not then its got some problem.
What it does is it revs to about 6 - 7k rpm, then starts to really pull, but were as my old english tzr (with the valve pegged open) would then pull my arms outa their sockets until sounding like it was gona explode at 12k rpm (which it did in the end, R.I.P), this bike just makes a really sluttering sound and refuses to rev much harder.
i havnt really looked at the engine much (so bloody hard to get at compaired with the old english models), so it is possible that its got a blockage in the air filter or carb, or needs new pistons and rings, but it does seem to me like the powervalve is closeing again at 8k.

i might try pegging the valve fully open permanantly with the valve cap from my english bike, and see if it still does it, but im not looking foward to removing the fairing, probably be easier to open that ride side and remove the engine!

ps, thanks Dan, i was impressed with the colours aswell.

[Dan]

Whats the milage on the bike?

(also, can you put some pictures of it in the bike pics forum if you have any??)

[FUBAR]

To see if its your power valve closing at 6.500rpm when its surposed to opening try this

firstly check to see if the power valve is full open turn the ignition on the power valve does the duty cycle open close open right now turn off ur ignition and remove the exhaust pipe now the power valve should be flush with the exhaust port ie flat inline with the exhaust tract

right now if it is sitting flush replace ur exhuast pipe ( actually while ur there is there a washer or a cone welded into the top of the exhaust flange?) if not refit the exhuast then without turning the ignition on unplug it and unplug the black and white single wire coming out of the ignition ( this is the kill wire funny eh this is the only wire stopping ppl from starting ur bike) anyway once uve done that bump start the bike and take for a test ride now does it rev past 6-7k rpm? Ull have one hell of a flat spot up until 6-7k rpm due to the power valve being fully open just dip the clutch abit and get it humming :)

If it still dosnt and now u know the power valve is fully open (not in restricted mode) or high compression mode then it is something else ..

hope this helps

[acid512]

cheers for the help, but it turns out the restriction was simply the complete lack of maintanance carried out by the previous owner, the plug was barely sparking and the airfilter seriously blocked. A new plug and cleaned filter and i thing i've neary doubled the bikes bhp!

still doesnt seem as mentall as my old bike, but hopefully i wont have to rebuild the top end on this one every ,month or so!

ps, any idea were i could find the under seat storage cover (itallian bikes only), as it is missing on my bike
http://www.angelfire.com/anime2/mihoshi152/bike/tzrback.jpg
as you can see it really ruins the look!

[Dan]

Glad you got it all sorted - its normally a mixture of really simple things :clap:

That rear flap was totally knackered on my old Ita TZRR... someone on here mentioned that a TZRR somewhere was being broken at a local scrap yard.... thats your best bet. If you get no luck searching for whoever posted that, try the places mentioned in the Useful Info section of the site.
Theres a really good breakers who have always got italian TZR's in aswell, but i cant for the life of me remember their name. THeir website is black... damm my memory is so naff.

If i remember, i'll let you know.

[Tark]

that someone was me dan.

search for martyn's mortorcycles.

[FUBAR]

I got one :wink:

but its orange and white so will have to be painted check out martyn's mortorcycles first he might have one in the colour ur looking for if not u know where i am :)

[Spider]

erm when you switch the ignition on with my powervalves fubar the sound isnt that loud?? is that right?? i know im kinda bodgeing it with a 350LC power valve servo and brain etc!! but do you think that is the reason it is not so loud as on my 250 the buzzzzing sound is quite loud and distinguished but on the 125 it isnt?

[FUBAR]

U should be able to hear the duty cycle quite clearly take the right hand inspection cover off and see if its moving freely if its not turn it off cuz ull burn the motor out on the servo! u need to make sure it moves freely


Fubar

[Mike]

My TZR's exactly the same as yours, acid. Same colours, '92 Italian import.

I wouldn't worry too much about the 'boot-lid'. Mines absolutely crap. Evertime I go over a bump bigger than a zit, the bloody thing pops open.

Useful for keeping locks and oil in though...

[Dan]

I remember that on my old TZRR... that lock was just pants!

[Mike]

It sure is. I'm going to try and get a bigger split pin in it, although I've noticed that there is some give on the flimsy hinge which allows just enough sideways movement for it to be opened and closed without the key.

I may try to fix that and I reckon that should resolve the problem.

[Jims]

Right, lets give this whole derestricting malarky a go...!!! :)

Fubar and Tark were talking about exhaust systems, well which is best? and do you have to find a TZRR specific one?

Cheers

[Tark]

Jolly Moto are One of the only Exhausts I could Find for my TZRR.

Have you managed to de-restrict the bugger yet? :lol:

Get it done. Only takes and hour or 2. :twisted:

[Jims]

All done!!! WOW!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :twisted:

That is awesome!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

How much and where did u get the exhaust?

[Tark]

Did it all go smoothly and you find the wires OK I guess? Where the powervalves not set up right or was it just electronic?

What you had out of it then!!?? :twisted:


Just do a Search for Jolly Moto on Google or something and I am sure you will find something.

Stan Ste Sell them too i think.

[Jims]

Well, to tell a lie, i did the erm... "admin" side of things! (ie. print off your instructions) and my dad did it for me! But he said everything went smoothly, apart from the cable on the servo snapped, but he made one until the new one arrives! well, i'm amazed by the accelleration! well, up the only national area in hastings (which is fairly steep and only single carriage way and bendy, all round not that nice), I went up it today doing 80/85, very comfortably, not really ringing the pants off it! my dad got it to 75 on saturday (he's somewhat bigger than me tho). Not properly tried it yet, I'll post on here when I go faster!!! But oh, so much fun! and the sound, argh! No one will go on the back with me though, not even now i've passed my test...!!! :( even my gf's been banned by her parents!!! I think I ride very safely... :twisted: hmm....

Yer, cheers, might chat to stan stephens, think I gotta get a couple of bits off him for my RM soon or my TS maybe, so I'll see about the exhaust, cheers!

BTW. Three cheers for mark for providing the TZRR owners with sooooooo much fun!!! Cheers!

[Tark]

Why Thank You!

I found a similar problem with my Valve cabel.

Cos it hasn't been needed in the way it was set up it has spent most of its life not doing much and gets rusty and stuck. Once you get a new one greesed up and slapped on it should be fine.

And get it wapped open! you want at least 100 mph out of it!! :twisted:

[Jims]

indeed!

well, 100 plus i think i could manage, but i will have to see! Will tell all of my top speed! ....But maybe not my dad...!!! :lol:

[Biker Dude]

u should get 105mph at least..easy

[Jims]

yer, i should get 105 probably, especially as i'm not that big, well about 9stone to be exact!!! so i'll get to 105, but it's whether I will be able to hang on and don't get blown off the back!!! :lol:

[Tark]

If your that small you should be able to sit behind the screen! :lol:

Imagine How i feel when I have to race at speeds of 150 mph+ with no Screen!! :shock: :shocked!:

[Jims]

hehe! thanks!!! i can virtually tuck myself behind the screen, so that's not too bad, but i'm not that short either, that's all! yer, but that's on a nice 600!!! ringing the nuts off a 125 that's vibrating all thru u is a bit different! it's a different kind of scary! and those big metal boxes with 4 wheels are just a pain in the arse!!! might be able to get a go on my dad's track bike one day though! that'd be fun!

[wowzer]

Sunday i sat back n had a j whilst thinking wot i can do to my bike!(as i cant ride it)
then i thought while its off the road i would fully de-ristrict it n c wot other things i could do,as it started to get to my head(the j ) i suddenly went off wot i was doing as i realised i needed to adjust the clutch,then one thing led to another and i had gone over most the bike before getting into the power valve opperation.

the TZR4DL doesnt have the wire under the seat thingy (electrical ristrictor as said by TARK for the earlier model)all it came down to was;

1.remove the exhaust,(please dont attempt to start it coz it makes a {EB} racket! N could cause u to be hard of hearing for the next month or so until the high pitch sound has worn off or ya ears have stopped bleeding!) ....i know ya prob still gonna do it!

2.take the cap off the LEFT side of the power valve(two allenkey retainig bolts about 4mm.?)

3.slacken off the two 10mm locking nuts on the YPVS cables all the way n wind the threaded adjusters all the way in.(on both)

4.undo the 10mm bolt inbetween the cables(that screws into the side of the power valve) n take it out.

5.pull off the plastic mount that holds the cables(keep the cables in it it saves time)

6.use a torch and look up the exhaust out let(Not with it running!)use the other hand and turn on the ignition (this is just so u see how the thing works,cool ha thats ya bikes internal organs)hehe. then turn OFF.

7.put ya finger up ya hole(in the exhaust outlet) and turn the valve till it sits flush with the outlet.(have a look to check)

8.with one hand grab the plastic mount that u left on the cables n twist it anti clockwise whilst ya over finger is up the pipe checking the YPVS hasnt moved,place the mount on.

9.put the 10mm bolt back in it.(YPVS still not moved)adjust the left cable out with fingers(still with one up the pipe checking no movement).once u take up all the slack on the cable leave that one n do the other one by hand(no pliers or grips ya prob brake summin,cables or plstic piece)

10.wind the 10mm nuts back down the adjusters n lock em off with a spanner(dont go made ya only spoil the thread on em)

11.RIGHT! ive been reading some of the others and some have said that the 3 beeps turn into 2beeps! ..........ya sort of had me there as mine sounded like 2 anyway!(but was only revving upto 8500RPM) n now its got its new name R2D2 (my bike) coz it sounds like some kinda funky beeping {EB}, u know like some old PACMAN game! (no im not old) N im the winner!! :roll: :)

12.one last look to check its open! put back the valve cap with the 2 allenkey bolts,gumgun n fit the exhaust, warm her up while ya washing up n grabbing ya lid,gloves and jacket.

CHECK BRAKES THEN............AVIT!!!!!!!

Also put racing reed valves in it on tuesday,adjusted the oil pump,brakes and was gonna put a K&N on but so many shops said the standard box was a better design no water gets in n its big enough that it can hold a nice bit of warm air fresh for the carb!!! (warm from the engine)

Now i just gotta GET A PIPE,prep n paint the fairing......oh think im gonna polish the wheels or just the dish of the wheels n it wa be sweet for the summer/drydays. and i wanted to build a bike over the winter? mines done.....nearly! better get another!

.....and to think i was gonna sell it for a grand back in the summer n that was after i had rebuilt the engine, done the bodywork and had a full respray!!!! tell ya summin the mate who never bought it will be well ****ed of now.i had told him buy it and when i findout about the restrictor i would take it ,do it and wont charge him.thought that was a good deal!!
it is a italian 4DL model on a 98'plate R reg,with some funky pattern paint job on it which was fresh as can be as i had only fitted it all back together the day before! (we'll i did have to let people see that it was my bike before anyone else's as i had put all the hours into it sitting in a freezing cold garage in december with snow outside whilst rebuilding and polishing parts!)

how the {EB} did i write that much!

[smokie]

If you want a good pipe and 2 stroke porting done go for Mick Abbey hes a good bloke and will listen to your needs.
Heres his website
Mick Abbey Tuning (http://www.two-stroke-addicts.freeserve.co.uk/mick/home.htm)

[Tark]

So its restricted by the Power valve but not the electrics. Thats all you needed to say! :lol:


At least thats Another model added to the list! One day we will know how to derestruict anything!! :twisted:

[wowzer]

coulda but i diddnt! but u read it anyway just to c if it was a different way of going about it,dint ya ?

its just that some of the others were strange.....

[wowzer]

N TARK can i ask, Y do i have 50cc next to my name? did u have to,i used to use them to make go karts whet i was about 8-9years old!

NO OFFENCE ANY ONE!!!!! :D

[Spider]

when you post more then ur name will change! ther elike levels like the helmets! the mor eu post the more helmets you get!

[Tark]

I dodn't do it. Its DAN! I keep asking him to change mine cos it says {EB} moderaotr and then moderator on my helmets! :roll:

[GunBalina]

Strip both wires and join them together with a male crimp . You can just twist them together but its not recommended by myself. Then with another piece of wire of the same thickness (enough to go from the two wires to the oil tank earth) crimp a female crimp to one end and a ring to the other.

Now earth your ring to the oil tank earth and plug in your bullet connectors!

Have FUN!! :twisted:

Hello!
I'm having some troubles, finding out where the oil tank earth is!
Can anyone help???
Cheers!

[Tark]

Sorry it has been a while. You will have to remind me what year and model bike and what you are trying to do? All the earths on the biks should go to the frame so if your needing an earth you can use any part of the frame usually.

[GunBalina]

Its a TZR 125 R 4FL, like the bike you used to own.
Ive tried earthing the wires to the back frame, but the valve opens at higher revs and the bikes looses its punch. So I thought that it was a problem of the earth I was connecting it to.
If not mistaken, with the wires disconnected the valve opens at around 6500-7000 and it seems to rev more. With them wired it opens at around 8000-8500 and it seems more slow to rev in lower revs, and it doesnt really want to go to red line...
Any thoughts??
Thanks!

[Tark]

Have you set the powervalve up as eplained earlier in the process?

[GunBalina]

Yeap, everything else is as should be!! PV checked, and double checked, cables, the PV is opening just fine, the problem is the way the power is delivered. And after my trials I'm guessing that it has something to do with the way I'm earthing these cables. That's why i wanted to find out where the Oil tank Earth was.

[Tark]

It was about 3 years ago since I did it but I think they are on the left hand side of the bike when you take the left hand side seat unit off. Bolted to the frame towards the tank end I think. All i can suggest is going through and making sure you have the correct cables cut and joined together. I cant help much more without seeing a photo of what you have done so far.

[GunBalina]

Ok, thanks! I'll get busy during the weekend and if it doesn't work, I'll take some pictures and post them here!
Cheers!

[Tark]

No Problem. Happy to help.

[smokie]

Does anyone have the ignition curve for a 4DL TZR125 please. Im also looking for a portmap for the same bike.