What oil ?

[The Guvnor]

Well shes almost ready for summer ! Just new tyres and an oil change to finiish off.

Anyone got any ideas on a better oil to use ? also is it really worth putting in an additive ? does it work ?

Roll on the warm weather and long days !:rockon

[Ducky]

Castrol GPS 10-40w (semi) and no additives! :)

[Lateshift]

Silkolene Comp 4 10/40 all the way ;)

[Juvenilerider]

Definately don't buy Tescos' Own Motor Oil - £1.97p/litre

[two]

10/40 semi

[Ride-or-die]

so when do u class it official bike summertime???

[FasterThanU]

silkolene 10/40for kwaks they love it! thats why they drink more of it than anyother bike

[fall off]

Castrol GPS 10-40w (semi) and no additives! :)

I was going to say that :grin2
i use it, no probs at all

[Biker Dude]

comp 4 silkoline or
sport 4 putoline

[The Guvnor]

Very helpfull..........cheers guys. :clap :clap :clap

[WebTone]

The measure of oil’s resistance to flow is Viscosity. An oil’s viscosity is identified by its SAE (Society for Automotive Engineer’s) number. The thinner an oil, the lower its number, e.g. SAE 10 W. The number relates to viscosity at a particular temperature and the ‘W’, indicates the oil’s suitability for colder temperature. For optimum performance choose a ‘20 W40’ which shows thinness at low temperature (but not the thinnest, therefore providing a higher degree of protection) and thickness at higher temperature.

It is fashionable to run 10 40 oils but that is because they are cheaper to produce than 20 40. A 20 50, or "standard" multigrade is an all-rounder but does not provide sufficient lubrication at the higher temps acheived by modern sports bikes.

Additives are fine between oil changes but will decrease an oils longevity in most cases.

Synthetic motor oils should only be used on engines specifically designed for them. (SMMMT information). Some wet clutch bikes will experience clutch slip or drag when these are used. Worst case this type of oil can damage seals.

[fall off]

The measure of oil’s resistance to flow is Viscosity. An oil’s viscosity is identified by its SAE (Society for Automotive Engineer’s) number. The thinner an oil, the lower its number, e.g. SAE 10 W. The number relates to viscosity at a particular temperature and the ‘W’, indicates the oil’s suitability for colder temperature. For optimum performance choose a ‘20 W40’ which shows thinness at low temperature (but not the thinnest, therefore providing a higher degree of protection) and thickness at higher temperature.

It is fashionable to run 10 40 oils but that is because they are cheaper to produce than 20 40. A 20 50, or "standard" multigrade is an all-rounder but does not provide sufficient lubrication at the higher temps acheived by modern sports bikes.

Additives are fine between oil changes but will decrease an oils longevity in most cases.

Synthetic motor oils should only be used on engines specifically designed for them. (SMMMT information). Some wet clutch bikes will experience clutch slip or drag when these are used. Worst case this type of oil can damage seals.
you got " competition" Mister lateshift :grin2

[SDM]

you could also try BP Ultimate Unleaded, I know its not cheap, but my machine runs a lot better...

[Lateshift]

Thats not competition Rick :D

Thats Webtone doing exactly the same as i do, making sure he does the homework before he parts with any cash :D

Now he is either one of two things

tights arsed and needs to know the ins and outs of a gnats chuff before he parts with his hard earned,

or as sad as me in that he likes to actually read up on how it all works, just so you can poke some spotty oik in the eye and tell him he is talking sheeeeite :D






or he could be both like me???? :D

;)

[WebTone]

I'm both tight and a sad git. Came out of RAF in yorkshire and picked up the local customs.

Sad git 'cos I have to know everything about anything mechanical/electrical or similar and if I haven't had it in bits and rebuilt within first 6 months then its either made in Taiwan and will never go back together or I've stripped one before.:grin3

[The Guvnor]

Looks like a military thing then !!!!:laugh1

How bout this one...............should I flush the engine first before I replace the oil ? if so..........what is best to use ?

[WebTone]

I have never flushed an engine in my life and never had one sieze/blow up or generally kancked before. And I haven't always ridden like an old lady!

That said, if you regularly do oil changes at or below what the manual says and change filter (lots don't change theirs with the oil) then I reckon you never need to use engine flush.

If you do use engine flush, make sure that you use one that is both CE approved and has a TUV type approval for motorcycles. That way you can be sure it won't harm any seals you may have.

Wynns do one that meets this spec and I guess there will be others. Halfords own is not TUV approved.

[DoodleBug]

Halfords own is not TUV approved.

The b*stards.

[WebTone]

The b*stards.

I know, I know! They're just so cheap.

pmsl

[WebTone]

Looks like a military thing then !!!!:laugh1

I think you are right. My missus says I still talk like a yorkie. I'm not. Its just that you pick up language and customs wherever you go.

I'm still to be found chasing fish, flapping my wings and otherwise generally displaying the behavioural traits of penguins.

[Biker Dude]

never flush an ally engine... it's not healthy!!

There should never be a need to flush an engine for an oil change unless you've gone and blow the thing up b4 hand..:D