Down gearing....

[r6paul]

Yes im asking another 'techincal' question. :laugh2

As of next week i'll have my bike back, and will be getting it back on the road. It desperatly needs a new chain and sprcokets.


Gaz suggested the idea of down gearing it. So that when i take it on the track i'll have quicker acceleration. I know that it'll have a slightly less top speed but im not worried about that.


Is it just a case of getting a slightly bigger rear sprocket?

And....

Anyone suggest a good size number of teeth for the front and rear sprocket? (1999 R6)






cheers again

Paul

[Mi5ter E]

the cheaper way of doing it is to go down on the front one or two at the most if your feeling flush do the rear
easy way to work it out

one down on the front is the came as three up on the rear

if you do the rear u might need to get a longer chain.................

[Lateshift]

should never really need to go down more than 1 off the front, i dont think there has been a bike yet that has really needed that ;)

1 tooth off the front is equal to adding 3 to the rear.

Speak to either the Cap'n or Becky as i gave them a gearing calculator for the R6, that allows you to input the gear ratios and tyre sizes and then shows what the theoretical speed differences are (when you down gear you tend to lose top end slightly).

The first thing i did to the Mille was drop it from 16/40 to 15/40, i have a 42 rear sprocket to go on but the chain needs a touch more slack in it first.

Also bear in mind that its often easier to lose one off the front first, because the chain will still fit, if you were to try and add an extra 3 at the rear instead, you would likely find the chain can be very tight, tight is bad ;) :)

[two]

should never really need to go down more than 1 off the front, i dont think there has been a bike yet that has really needed that ;)

-2 on the front and theres a good chance that your chain will be hitting the top of your swingarm when your riding
(and it will also put more strain on the shaft coming out of the gearbox)

if your buying a chain and sprocket at the same time i'd just go +3 at the rear to start with
and then if you feel you need more acceration it'll be easy to go -1 at the front (you may find -1 front and +3 rear, too revy for road riding - but thats a personal thing)

you might want to think about getting a yellow box fitted so the speedo and mileage clock up correctly (as once geared down your speedo will over read and you'll clock up more miles than your actaully doing) i think its about 7% for every +3 at the rear

[r6paul]

Ah ok


Yes im getting the chain and sprockets at the same time. So best idea is to get a rear sprocked with an extra 3 teeth?



What is this yellow box called?

[RaceMeNSee]

ive been tempted with this idea pod......Im so bored with my bike, and im gonna be keeping it until next march now....so this MIGHT be just what i need! keep me informed little one!

[milleuks]

Here you go Paul
http://www.demonbikes.com/product.asp?ID=5467
this is prob the best and cheapest one I`ve come across Mate It does afew extra things as well......
,,,Dave

[two]

What is this yellow box called?

speedohealer
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/intro.htm

they have an online calulator which is handy

a uk site that does them for £60
http://www.minihaha.co.uk/acatalog/SPEED_HEALER.html

[/edit]ya beat me to it[/edit]

[r6paul]

Cheers everyone. Will look into it and let you know what i decide

[Lateshift]

-1 at the front, +2 up on the rear should be more than enough, or just add 2 at the rear until the chain slackens enough to stick a bigger rear on later.

Believe it or not you will notice a difference with +2 at the rear but it gives you a chance to get used to it, then once the chain has slackened stick 1 more tooth, maybe 2 on it (will give pretty much the same sort of effect as having -1 front +2 rear) at least then you have 3 rear sprockets which can be swapped for different circuits ;)

Juliet ran +3 on the rear of hers at Rockingham and even though the bike wouldnt pull above 80mph she had more than enough traction to have to wait for the bigger bikes to get out of the way in the corners, at Lydden she used -1 front + 2 rear and it transformed the bike :)

[RaceMeNSee]

She was FAST at lyddon! its all ile say about it!

[Juvenilerider]

I've just had my bike geared down, and it's the ****.

It revs out like a ****ing race bike, lost about 10-15mph top end but it's ****ing awesome, my bike has **** all mid-range so this has helped no end!

I went down 1 tooth on the front sprocket and it's the ********, i've fallen back in love with my bike.

And it's cool seeing 170+ on the clocks!

[Lateshift]

Its a 600, how do you see 170+ on the clocks if you down gear it when at the same time you reckon you have lost 10-15mph top end??

1 tooth down on mine lost 5mph, why so much of a loss on yours? (unless the gearing is different to that of a twin?)

Really weird that, i honestly thought that 600 speedo's would be on a par with any other Jap bike speedo too.

Is this without a speedo healer on it? (i have never had to fit one to be honest so am not sure how the gearing actually affects the clocks before and after).

Get it on the dyno and have it read properly, at least then you have a rough idea of what the bike is really topping out at because 10-15mph on the speedo might be more or less in reality although real speed the CBR600RR is supposed to top out at around 160mph.


Anyway does this mean that the idea of keeping the bike off the road has all but vanished as a bad idea? :D ;)

[becky]

i think hes trying to say that he sees 170mph because the speedo isnt inline now. not that it actually does 170

[Lateshift]

ah right i am back on track now :D

so if dropping from a 16/42 to a 15/42 then the speedo is reading even faster by 6.25% over what its currently out by :)

which would mean that the bike is topping out at around 155-159 which is none too shabby for the increased acceleration ;) :)

i suppose the benefit of this is at least its reading over what you are actually doing so even if you think you are going too fast for a camera, there is a chance that it isnt going to flash :)

[RaceMeNSee]

Sounds cool, how much was the sprocket?

[r6paul]

Sounds cool, how much was the sprocket?


I've been quote £7.89 for a front sprocket with 15 teeth instead of the standard 16 teeth for the '99 R6

Around £22 for standard rear sprocket.....







And just for the CHAIN anywhere between £100 (for a race conversion chain) to £170.

[Lateshift]

dont think i paid more than £120 for a 520 DID chain and 2 new Renthal sprockets to be honest, in fact i think Jules paid less than that for her ZXR400 too :)

[r6paul]

dont think i paid more than £120 for a 520 DID chain and 2 new Renthal sprockets to be honest, in fact i think Jules paid less than that for her ZXR400 too :)


For some reason the R6 chain is a lot more expensive than most bikes out there. They said it runs on a higher tension (don't ask me what because i can't remember what it was - although possibly 580 but im not sure)

So for the certain road chain its costs around £150ish

Although you can get a race conversion to 530 and thats slightly cheaper. Asked a few garages in chelmsford and they are all quoting the same price. Newcombes seems to be the cheapest tho.

[troutslayer]

For some reason the R6 chain is a lot more expensive than most bikes out there. They said it runs on a higher tension (don't ask me what because i can't remember what it was - although possibly 580 but im not sure)

So for the certain road chain its costs around £150ish

Although you can get a race conversion to 530 and thats slightly cheaper. Asked a few garages in chelmsford and they are all quoting the same price. Newcombes seems to be the cheapest tho.

original chain size is 532. conversion to 530 literally means swapping out the front and rear sprockets to a 530, and the chain to match.
b and c express are your buddies :) http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/cgi-bin/bc_page.pl?cat=KITS-ROAD&nav=Yamaha

[r6paul]

original chain size is 532. conversion to 530 literally means swapping out the front and rear sprockets to a 530, and the chain to match.
b and c express are your buddies :) http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/cgi-bin/bc_page.pl?cat=KITS-ROAD&nav=Yamaha

indeed, knew what the conversion was about, just couldn't remember the numbers. lol.


Ah cheers for that site. Believe the one im after is the... Renthal Race Gearing and Tsubaki X Ring Gold at £122.49 (well as far as i've understood thats the standard rear sprocket and -1 tooth on the front, with split X ring chain inc)

Saves me £10 so thank you!

[r6paul]

Only £3 P&P too, not bad at all

[troutslayer]

b and c are usually a superb service, i get all my sprockets from them :)

[RaceMeNSee]

What happens if you change the sprocket and not the chain?!

[troutslayer]

you can do that, however the chain/sprockets will wear quicker. but if you put 530 sprockets on and leave the 532 chain, then the chain aint gunna fit the teeth properly and would be disastrous!