Collant Question - R1 - (lateshift?)

[Gixxer-TeZ]

:reading Could this be another Lateshift Question ?


Well in the process of making my 2002 R1 into a naked bike/semi-streetfighter, I had to remove the naff looking coolant radiator expansion tank and replace it with something better looking.
As a result I looked into how the tank worked, and came to the conclsuion that the normal rad cap on the main radiator has a thermostatic control built into it and when the bike gets hot the thermostatic control in the cap opens and the excess hot coolant is released into the expansion bottle. When the bike cools down the liquid is returned to the main radiator ????????

So ....... I got a small bottle and with the help of a few fittings, got it set up the same as OEM tank so the pipe from the main red enters the bottle via the top cap. The hose is actaully fitted so it goes through the lid and just touches the bottom of the bottle. Well that was that bit.

Then came the overflow. I went for a simple hole/gromet/overflow hose arrangement. It worked ok for a while, but the other day when pulling away hard ( yes.......the front end was in the air ) the gromet decided to start leaking ( yes ...... I could see that coming too ).

So. Back to the drawing board.

Firstly I need to work out how much pressure if any can build up in that bottle. Do I need the overflow ?? Also does that pipe also act as a breather for when the coolant is transferring between tanks ??

If I need the overflow, I will somehow work out how to do it, but i need to know the approx pressure and need for this pipe.

See picture below and you'll see how it is set up at the moment.
Don't forget the pipe from the main rad going into the top of bottle goes right to the bottom of the bottle.

Also, keep in mind I am still building this, so looks isn't everything. First hurdle is to get it all working 100% then make it look pretty after that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/essexbikers/R1%20Project/bottle.jpg

[Lateshift]

Been mulling this over today as it goes, and i would really need to see a diagram of how the R1 cooling system works, the atmospheric valve to vent to the overflow bottle if common practice on lots of cooling system however in nearly all cases that is where the pressure stops.

The cooling system is only pressurised via the heat build up and expansion of hot fluid/gases, the overflow being what it says on the tin shouldnt hold pressure normally, it should actually have a breather overflow to stop it building up any pressure in there under normal circumstances.

However with the R1 having a coolant return that would suggest that there is part of the system that allows it to drain back and rejoin the flow of coolant the only way it could do that normally is through negative pressure or by gravity, if it was negative pressure then the overflow if full could implode theoretically so chances are its a gravity feed. (again i havent actually looked at the R1 system).

Surely the design of your bottle has to mirror for the best part, the bottle that was removed, if its just a case of the new bottle leaking then i would have just suggested using a theaded union for it seeing as its alloy, with a smidge of instant gasket.

On the existing expansion bottle was there a vent at all, it may be that pressure is building up in yours and leaking at the weakest part? (if so it may be worth tapping in a vent of some sort?

I will think some more on it and see if i can find a diagram to look at :)

[Gixxer-TeZ]

Well here is a pic of the OEM tank.

http://www.ryan-holmes-charity.co.uk/genpics/extank.jpg

The blue line indicating the top cap ( which I can't find ) that was a completely rubber affair that simply pushed on and the pipe was part of the cap that came from the main rad straight through the res rubber cap into the plastic bottle to touch the bottom of the res tank.
(did that make sense) ??

The red line is where the overflow pipe PUSHED on to and run to under the engine. This pipe was simply clipped to the res tank via the clip points marked in green.

Just to quote the haynes book of lies ....

"On 2002 to 2003 models, a temperature sensor mounted in the thermostat housing transmits signals to the engine control unit (ECU) which in turn controls the operation of the cooling fan via a relay. The ECU also controls the operation of the coolant temp display and warning light.
The complete cooling system is partially sealed and pressurised being controlled by a valve contained in the spring loaded radiator cap. By pressurising the coolant the boiling point is raised, preventing premature boiling in adverse conditions. The overflow pipe from the system is connected to a reservoir, into which excess coolant is expelled under pressure. The discharged coolant automatically returns to the radiator when the engine cools."

But although that mentions the coolant being transferred from the main system to the res under pressure, does that mean the system hits a certain pressure and opens the cap valve, or it expelled pressurised ?
It is well known that caps like this on cars can be pressure tested to make sure they crack open at the correct pressure, so I take it the same applies to my cap ?
Also, looking at the bottle, the fact the overflow pipe simply pushes onto that take off lug, and that the lid not show is simply pushed on, I would pressume that the res was not designed to tolerate much pressure ?
The overflow pipe has one of those silly wire clip things on it like you can see above on my new bottle where the pipe is connected to the top.

One option is to polish up a new bottle ( I have a stash of spare one .. LOL .....sad eh ) and set it up the same but instead of drilling a hole for the overflow, see If I can drill a breather hole in the top black cap ?
Only problem then, is if I have got it wrong about the pressure and it decides to build up and blow, it's gonna shoot straight up and blow into my face :reading


Suggestions on a postcard.

[Gixxer-TeZ]

Just one other point,

I think my currently fitted test bottle leaks more to the point that the overflow is fitted via a standard gromet as in picture.
The gromet isn't the best idea or fitting, and hard acceleration ( of the front wheel lifting ) is basically tipping any coolant out.
It isn't an excessive amount, but enough to cause a problem. Any type of threaded fitting won't work because the alloy is way too thin.