Brake disc removal - how on earth do you get them off!?!?!?!

[JayGates_SP1]

Okkkkk they are stuck. I have already snapped one allen key trying to undo them!
Any top tips guys would be appreciated!

[bayonet]

Paint stripping hot air gun to warm it up a bit first and an impact driver with a proper impact allen bit.

[crescent750]

Couple of taps with a hammer and they should undo,,.. with a bit of muscle....

[DoGbOt]

I have mine on an off regularly to stop this but......
the best way i've found is an allen key Drive
( allen key in a socket) &
a Breaker Bar (long bar with a socket drive on the end) a

ll purchasable from halfords or good tool shops & a must have!!!
& it doesnt muller the heads of the bolts! ive only ever replaced those bolts cos they look ropey doing it that way!!

[stu600cc]

try tightening a litlle to break the seal

[Tark]

That might snap them off though if they are that tight. Or strip the tread if it is alloy wheel with stainless bolt.. Impact driver is the way to go IMO.

[MICKTLS]

Jay if you can get the wheel to me at the workshop ill have a go at removing the bolts m8 ok

[Perilous]

try tightening a litlle to break the seal


They are locktighted in as a rule. Doing what Stu said is usually the best way to get them to start along with a good tap with the hammer for good measure. :grin2. If they do move then but are still tight as you wind them out give them a 1/4 turn tight again to clear the thread. Obviously don't try to do them up so hard you just sheer them off though.

After that the impact driver is probably the best bet for the 'home' mechanic.



Personnaly I just weld a bar to them if they are really stubborn. The rapid expansion and coontraction of the stud frees it off and they come out easy peasy. You do of course need new bolts afterwards though.

[Perilous]

Forgot to say. If you do go the warm the wheel route and they still don't come heat it and let it cool a few times. This also breaks the loctite and corrosion. Ideally although it expands quicker than steel the ali wants to be warmed fairly quickly though so the bolt doesn't heat up much as well. If you get half way and the bolts are all getting warm its better to let it cool and start again.

In the bitter end if you do strip a thread inserts (not crappy helicoils) aren't that dear to have put in. I have two in the sprocket carrier on my rear dymag.

All this wittering aside though, if you take it to Mick and he puts one of his rattle guns on them they'll probably come straight out.

[stu600cc]

They are locktighted in as a rule. Doing what Stu said is usually the best way to get them to start along with a good tap with the hammer for good measure. :grin2.


thankyou :grin1