Advice needed please

[ant_vaz]

Hi everyone...I'm having a bit of battery/alternator trouble at the moment. My battery died randomly a month ago so I bought a new one and fitted it. After a week of usage the bike then refused to start one night (weak starter motor = dead battery).
I've since bought a battery charger/conditioner. This says the battery is 'strong' and able to hold its charge. However I got home tonight and turned the engine off...opened the garage...tried to start the bike to put it away and it was dead...completely dead. Hooked it up to the battery charger and it immediately read 12.3V of charge. I assume its an alternator problem, but could someone work out why the battery still read 12.3V please??

I'm doing 50 straight line miles each day to and from work on the A13 so the bike is having a good run, and the battery is linked to the conditioner each night.

Any help appreciated, thanks

Ant

[Lateshift]

Chances are its the starter relay ;)

Quite a common problem on bikes especially V Twins due to the amount of cranking amps they need from the battery to fire them big pots :)

[kasandrich]

You need to stick a voltmeter across the battery, you need to see a significantly higher voltage when the engine is running than when its switched off.

If you dont have the facilities I am happy to do it for you, at my house in Braintree almost anytime, and I work at home so that includes daytime. PM me if you want me to check it.

[MICKTLS]

also the regulator/rectifier hasbeen known to playup on the TL

[jim7]

Had similar problem with srad although I didnt test with voltmeter,I checked sidestand cutout switch and kill switch then checked all wiring & connectors(pulled apart and looked at)back to regulatar/rectifier and noticed a slight melting of connector block that plugs into R/R. However on LHS of bike under fairing a yellow connector plug was the problem as connections inside block were badly corroded (green brittle ****).Took apart & cleaned out and found a loose wire/broken pin so I cut it out and put a new connector on it.This ONE wire when ignition was switched on operated & primed the fuel pump I think(buzzing for a couple of seconds)so bike wouldnt start.May be worth a checking wiring before shelling out on new RR £80(wemoto) but then again I have never owned a TL and Micktls is probably right.
Is the battery you bought,a Yuasa as in the past have bought **** pattern ones i.e sprint and they are crap!

[kasandrich]

also the regulator/rectifier hasbeen known to playup on the TL

Hence why I said it needs a volmeter on it first when switched off, then when running to confirm it is charging OK. ;)

[DoodleBug]

Quick test for a fried rectumfrier is if the lights dont brighten when you rev the engine.

[ant_vaz]

Cheers for the help everyone...turned out to be the regulator rectifier.

Thanks for the offer of help kasandrich, but my garage tested the bike for me when i dropped in there for something else today.
Looking for a new reg/rec online now

[Lateshift]

I know Wemoto do them but its going to be around £80 for one of them ;)

http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn

The part number for it is 32800-02F00 and that covers the TLR and S

Also the Hyabusa one fits 32800-33E10

[ant_vaz]

Cheers Latey, but I've kinda jumped the gun and bought one off ebay...for some reason the wemoto site wasnlt working when i tried it earlier.